(Literally, Jeju island)
What a cool place. I really, really enjoyed it. I'm pretty sure it's my favorite place in Korea. Let me start at the beginning of our adventure....
Friday morning, September 23, we got up early to catch the 7:40 bus to the airport. Once we got to the airport to check in, the people at Korean Air said our confirmation number had been cancelled online a week before! Yikes! So, after some phone calls to Mrs. Baek (who ordered the tickets for me), we got everything taken care of and just had to wait for a flight an hour later. It was so nice to get on an airplane
with Jason. The flight was short, just one hour. Upon arrival in Jeju, I was very excited to see some palm trees. They always make me happy. We decided to check into the youth hostel first so that we wouldn't have to carry our backpacks everywhere (that was really draining in Seoul).
The hostel was a ways out of the city, so we tried taking a bus closer, but that didn't work out too well. We ended up with a taxi and found the hostel. It was a really big building, that must specialize in school groups or something. But, because it wasn't peak tourist season, we were the only ones in the huge building. We each had a room of 18 beds to ourselves. When we were first checking in, we were having trouble communicating, so another man, Young-Gin, was brought over to translate. It turns out that he used to live in the US, so his English was really good. As he was asking us about our travel plans, etc, he offered to let us borrow his car! After thinking about it, we thought it would be a real treat. The bus system in Jeju isn't the best. So, we planned to meet him the next morning to get the car. We also mentioned how we were interested in trying some new food while in Jeju. One special Jeju food we had heard of was horse meat. We mentioned it, and another man there called a friend he had that worked at a restaurant that specialized in that. So, we planned to show up there at 7:00 to eat horse. Until then, we headed back to the city (Jeju-Si) to walk around the sea and explore. We saw a rock formation that looks like a dragon head. I just loved seeing how blue the ocean was and the neat contrast with the black rocks. We pretty much just wandered around taking pictures and exploring until the time came to go to the White Horse Restaurant.
The place was packed, but they were expecting us. The man from the hostel had pre-arranged some sort of special deal for us for 20,000 won a piece (about $20). But, we didn't really know what we had ordered. As we were waiting for our food, we noticed the people next to us eating raw meat. We really hoped that wasn't what we had ordered. But, lo and behold, they brought us out a similar plate of raw meat--apparently different horse organs (you can see it in my pictures). Being the adventurous types, we gave it a try. We weren't too impressed, especially considering we were paying $40 for it. So, I asked them to turn on the grill so we could cook it. It turned out that this was only the appetizer. It was a four course meal- raw meat, grilled meat, horse soup, and then another noodle soup with horse. The cooked horse wasn't bad at all. I especially liked the soup. So, we got our money's worth. I still think that raw horse has to top the list of strange foods I've eaten. Raw fish was nothing compared to that. After that we returned to the hostel for the night.
Saturday we got up early, expecting to meet Young-Gin at 7:30 am. He was flying to Seoul that day and wanted to meet us fairly early. However, he didn't show up. So, we tried calling him, but couldn't get ahold of him. We decided to go back to the city and try to reach him again before catching a bus. We were going to walk to find a taxi, but the older gentleman who runs the hostel gave us a ride instead! In Jeju-si we got some Dunkin' Donuts, used a bunch of pay phones to try to reach Young-Gin, and finally resigned ourselves to using the bus. The bus station was almost entirely in Korean. I found this strange because it's such a tourist destination. However, our ride on the bus made it apparent that tourists wouldn't want to use it. There are SO many stops that it takes a really long time to get anywhere.
Our destination for the day was on the East side of the island near a town called Seongsan-ri. First we hiked up the crater for which the town is named (Seongsan Illchulbong- "Sunrise Peak"). A pretty popular place. There were many other people there as well. We paid 2,000 won to get in and climbed the stairs to get to the top. What was especially amusing to me was that there were little speakers the entire way up that played relaxing music as you climbed. At the top we took a bunch of pictures and Jason served as the photographer for a few other groups of people- A Korean family, a Spaniard, and a Korean-American from CA who spoke very little Korean.
After climbing down, taking more pictures of the sea, and looking at souvenirs, we went to the ferry station to go to U-do (literally, Cow Island). By this time, the weather had cleared up and it was a beautiful day. Udo is a small island (about 17 km circumference) off the coast of Jejudo. We ate lunch upon arrival there (bibimbop- always good) and rented a couple bikes. Unfortunatly, the last ferry back to Jejudo was at 5:30, so we only had 2 hours left to explore the island. Udo is really beautiful. There are a few touristy restaurants and hotels, but much of it seems unspoiled. There were tons of lava rock walls stretched all over the place. We even saw a few of the famous women divers in their black diving suits and diving masks. They dive for different types of shellfish. It's a dying art, though. The younger women don't learn it anymore.
We hadn't biked very far before finding what I was really hoping to see-- a beach of crushed coral. It's really neat. It's small pieces of coral that have been rounded by the sea so that they don't hurt at all. And unlike regular sand beaches, it doesn't stick to you at all. Because it had been cooler in the morning and our plans were unsure, neither Jason or I had brought swimming clothes. So, I was just going to wade, but, if you know Jason at all, you'll know that couldn't last. We both ended up soaked. The water was really nice, though! So clear and blue. And the contrast between the white of the coral beach and the black rocks is quite striking. After messing around there, we bought a couple towels, biked a bit further, and then headed back to the port just in time to make the ferry.
Back on Jeju we thought we'd try a different bus route to get back quicker. Well, that didn't work. After lots of help from Koreans, "dinner" from a convenience store, and a couple different buses and a taxi, we finally got back to the hostel.